My family has been fortunate in these unfortunate times. Amid lockdowns and economic collapse, we’ve suffered no financial burdens, having already worked from home full time. Our modest contribution to keeping this ramshackle cruise liner of an economy afloat has been patronizing (when we can) favorite small businesses. Chief among those is the legendary whiskey paradise, Jack Rose Dining Saloon.
For Thanksgiving, Jack Rose offered various food items, themed cocktail flights, and whisk(e)y tasting flights. We decided to go with a bourbon pecan pie (the best pecan pie I’ve ever had) and the subject of this post, the “Tour of Scotland” tasting flight.
The Tour of Scotland included the following:
- Mortlach 1993 Single Malts of Scotland Sherry Cask, 26 yr., 60.5 abv
- Royal Brackla 2006 Classic Cask, 11 yr., 46 abv
- Glenturret Northstar, 8 yr., 57.1 abv
- Talisker Distiller’s Edition, 10 yr, 45.8 abv
- Lagavulin “South Shore Islay” Valinch & Mallet 8 yr., 48.8 abv
Some big hitters in there. A smart consumer would have been sure to grab the tasting notes before leaving, so as to be able to confirm which dram corresponds to which whisky, but I may have neglected to do that. So we have ourselves a (semi) blind tasting!
Dram #1:
Nose: Brown sugar, salted butter, cantaloupe, nutmeg, toffee; water unlocked an herbal bouquet and damp leaves
Palate: Walnut, dark chocolate, ginger, oak; water unlocked black licorice and caramel
Finish: long; Mexican chocolate and softer, lingering oak
What a depth and breadth to that nose! Confectionary notes, tropical fruit notes, herbal notes, earthy notes. It was enticing, complex, and interesting. I could have spent an hour just nosing this whisky. The palate was hot and a bit more compact. Fruit notes faded, the spice ramped up, and the tannic oak took control. More spice on the finish along with that a more pleasant, lingering oak.
Score: 6.5/10. The nose was astounding, but taste did not hold up to that high bar.
My guess: This is the Mortlach, and the prominence of tannic oak leads me to believe it’s a bit overaged. I would have loved to try this in the 18-21 year old range.
Dram #2:
Nose: Honeyed pear, fresh cut flowers, a touch of spice; water pushes the floral notes in the direction of fresh mint leaf
Palate: Fruit – more dried than fresh – dates, figs; caramel, vanilla, that touch of spice again; water lightened the fruit tones ever-so-slightly
Finish: medium-long; baking spices – clove, anise – and black coffee
Rating: 5/10. Nose and palate were each a bit shallow and compact. It was a nice whiskey, and I was glad to have tried it, but I wouldn’t seek it out. Better shelfie options available.
My guess: Even if I’d had this before #1, I’d have guessed the Royal Brackla. It doesn’t have the maturity of an older whisky, and the other non-Mortlachs should all have significant peat influence.
Dram #3:
Nose: Smoke, bruleed sugar, grilled pineapple, menthol, the underside of a wet log
Palate: Rich buttery caramel, smoked milk chocolate, pecan sandies
Finish: medium-long; pepper, char, earth
Rating 7/10. It’s tightly packed and not particularly complex, but my, is it delicious. I may buy a bottle.
My guess: Little doubt this is the Glenturret. I could buy an off-profile Talisker or Islay with that nose, but the palate is unmistakably Highland.
Dram #4:
Nose: Root beer, vanilla, toffee, light brine, sweet barbeque sauce
Palate: Dry and ashy; dark chocolate, black pepper, vanilla, a memory of smoke, slight oak, dried cherries
Finish: medium-long; bitter, extra dark chocolate, oak
Rating 5/10. This one is a victim of expectations. At this point in the tasting, I’d already assumed it was the Talisker (the color is particularly revealing there). The signature maritime notes of Talisker are hinted at in the nose and completely vanished on the palate. A shame.
My guess: No suspense here. It’s not an Islay, and the color means it can only be the Talisker
Dram #5:
Nose: Grilled lemon, smoke, spearmint, caramel, cherry cola Bubblicious
Palate: Vanilla, pear, smoke, lemon peel, pepper, mineral earthiness, brine
Finish: long; ashy smoke turns to earthy peat reek
Rating 6.5/10. I like this one. It’s certainly an Islay – the heavier smoke and peat make that evident. What makes it a bit more interesting are the atypical notes of lemon and cherry cola flavored chewing gum.
My guess: Lagavulin, duh.
Overall, I really enjoyed this tasting. Five whiskies I’m unlikely to ever see on a store shelf or at another bar/restaurant. That’s what makes Jack Rose so special. It’s a land of dusties and unicorns. The 2700 bottle-strong whiskey book is constantly in flux, and never leaves you wanting. It is a pilgrimage-worthy destination for any whisk(e)y nerd.